Author: dash

If a tree just came down or is leaning after a storm, start with our guide on what to do about storm-damaged trees.

Your trees survived the storm — but making it through the night isn’t the end of the story. Torn limbs, jagged cuts, and stressed roots need the right follow-up care: corrective pruning of the torn limbs, cleaning up jagged cuts so the tree can seal, watching for decay and dieback over the following seasons, and giving stressed trees enough water.

First: Safety, Before Anything Else

• Treat every downed power line as live. If a tree or limb is touching a line — or a line is down anywhere near a tree — stay well clear and call your utility company (ComEd in our area) immediately. Then call us. Never try to move a tree off a power line yourself.
• Stay out from under damaged trees. A partially fallen tree or a big limb hung up in a canopy can shift and come down without warning. Keep kids and pets away until the situation is assessed.
• Don’t climb. Storm-damaged trees are unpredictable. Branches under tension can snap back, and split trunks can fail while you’re on them. What looks stable from the ground often isn’t.

Assess the Damage (From the Ground)

Once it’s safe to walk your property, look over each tree from a distance. You’re checking for:

• A new lean that wasn’t there before the storm — especially with soil heaving or roots lifting on one side. A leaning tree with a lifted root plate is at high risk of going over completely.
• Split trunks or major forks. A trunk split down the middle is a structural failure; the tree is unlikely to recover safely.
• Hanging limbs (“widowmakers”). Limbs broken off but caught in the canopy are among the most dangerous storm leftovers. They fall with the next wind — or on their own.
• Large wounds and stripped bark. Losing more than about a third of the canopy or bark usually means the tree won’t recover well.
• Exposed or torn roots. Significant root damage destabilizes the whole tree.

Take photos of everything before any cleanup starts — you’ll want them for insurance.

What NOT to Do

• Don’t run a chainsaw on storm-damaged trees unless you really know what you’re doing. Limbs under tension and compression behave violently when cut — they kick, roll, and spring. Storm cleanup is where most chainsaw injuries happen.
• Don’t “top” a damaged tree to save it. Topping destroys the tree’s structure and creates weakly attached regrowth that’s more dangerous later. A damaged tree either gets properly pruned or gets removed.
• Don’t rush to remove a tree that might recover. Some storm damage looks worse than it is. Minor limb loss on an otherwise healthy tree is a pruning job, not a removal — an in-person assessment sorts this out.

When It’s an Emergency vs. When It Can Wait

Call right away if: a tree is on your house, car, or blocking your driveway; a large limb is hanging over a walkway, play area, or street; a tree is leaning with lifted roots; or anything is near a power line (utility first, then us).

It can wait for a scheduled visit if: scattered small branches on the lawn, minor limb loss with no structural damage, or cosmetic bark wounds on an otherwise solid tree.

Storm damage calls are commonly triaged by urgency — if it’s a genuine hazard, say so when you call.

A Note on Insurance

Most homeowners policies cover tree removal when a tree damages a covered structure (your house, garage, fence) — but typically not for removing a tree that simply fell in the yard without hitting anything. Document everything with photos before cleanup, keep receipts, and check your policy. If an adjuster needs to see the damage, say so when you call so the timing of cleanup can be discussed.

Get Help After the Storm

Storm damage is stressful enough without wrestling it yourself. Call The Best Tree Guys at (708) 665-4874 — describe the damage when you call so it can be triaged — or request help through the online quote form. Serving Orland Park, Tinley Park, Homer Glen, Mokena, Frankfort, and the surrounding southwest Chicago suburbs.

If you have an ash tree in your yard, this is the post to read carefully. The emerald ash borer — a small, metallic-green beetle from Asia — has killed hundreds of millions of ash trees across the Midwest, and the southwest Chicago suburbs have been hit hard. Entire streets in Orland Park, Tinley Park, and surrounding towns have lost their ash canopy over the past decade.

Here’s how to tell if your tree is affected, and what your options are.

How to Spot an Infestation

Emerald ash borer larvae tunnel under the bark, cutting off the tree’s ability to move water and nutrients. The damage shows up in stages. Look for:

• Canopy dieback starting at the top. Thinning leaves in the upper crown are usually the first visible sign. A healthy ash has a full, even canopy — a thinning top is a red flag.
• D-shaped exit holes. When adult beetles emerge, they chew distinctive D-shaped holes about 1/8 inch wide in the bark. This is the clearest confirmation of emerald ash borer.
• Bark splitting and woodpecker damage. As larvae feed underneath, bark cracks and splits. Woodpeckers strip off outer bark hunting larvae, leaving pale, flecked patches — heavy woodpecker activity on an ash is a strong indicator.
• Suckers and water sprouts. A stressed ash pushes out shoots from the trunk base and along the trunk. Lots of suckers on an ash usually means the tree is in serious trouble.
• Leafy decline over 2–4 years. Infested trees typically decline over a few seasons, then die. Once more than half the canopy is gone, the tree generally can’t be saved.

If you see several of these signs together, assume emerald ash borer until proven otherwise.

Treatment vs. Removal: What to Consider

There are really only two paths, and the right one depends on the tree’s condition.

Treatment (systemic insecticide, usually trunk injection or soil application) can protect a healthy ash or one in the very early stages of infestation. But be realistic about it: treatment isn’t one-and-done — it needs reapplication every one to two years for the life of the tree, it costs money each cycle, and it only makes sense for a valuable tree that’s still mostly healthy. Treating a tree that’s already half-dead is throwing money away.

Removal is the right call for ash trees with advanced dieback, structural damage, or bark falling off in sheets. And here’s the part that matters most: dead ash trees are genuinely dangerous. Dead ash wood becomes brittle fast — far faster than dead oak or maple. Dead ash drop limbs without warning and can fail at the trunk. A dead ash near your house, driveway, sidewalk, or anywhere people walk should be treated as a priority removal, not a “someday” project.

If you’re unsure which category your tree falls into, an in-person look during an estimate is the usual way to get a straight answer.

Don’t Move Firewood

Emerald ash borer spreads fastest the human way: in firewood. Moving infested wood to a campground, a new property, or a friend’s house plants the beetle in a new area. Illinois has had firewood quarantines in affected counties for years. The rule is simple: burn firewood where you cut it, and never transport ash wood out of the area.

What to Plant Instead

When an ash comes down, replant with diversity in mind — the reason the borer was so devastating is that entire neighborhoods were planted with a single species. Good replacements for the southwest suburbs include oaks (white, red, bur), hackberry, Kentucky coffeetree, ginkgo (male), and disease-resistant elm varieties. A mix of species on your property means no single pest can ever do this again.

Suspect Emerald Ash Borer? Don’t Wait

Ash decline doesn’t reverse on its own, and dead ash only get more hazardous with time. If your ash is thinning at the top, showing D-shaped holes, or shedding bark, get it assessed now.

Call The Best Tree Guys at (708) 665-4874 or request a free estimate through the online quote form. Serving Orland Park, Tinley Park, Homer Glen, Mokena, Frankfort, and the surrounding southwest Chicago suburbs.

People use "trimming" and "pruning" interchangeably, but they describe different work with different goals. Here's what each means, when your trees need which, and why it matters.

If you're searching for tree trimming in the southwest Chicago suburbs or wondering whether your trees need pruning, this guide will help you understand what to ask for — and what a good tree company should actually do once they're on your property.

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Tree Trimming: Managing Growth and Clearance

Trimming is about controlling a tree's size and shape — cutting back overgrowth for clearance, appearance, and safety. Typical trimming work includes:

• Cutting back limbs that overhang the roof, driveway, or sidewalk
• Clearing branches away from power lines and structures
• Shaping hedges and ornamental trees
• General canopy reduction for a tidier look

Trimming is maintenance. It keeps the tree from interfering with your property and keeps your yard looking cared for.

Tree Pruning: Improving Health and Structure

Pruning is targeted, technical work aimed at the tree's long-term health and structural strength. Typical pruning work includes:

• Deadwood removal — taking out dead branches before they fall
• Crown thinning — selectively removing branches to reduce wind resistance and let light through
• Structural pruning — correcting weak branch attachments and competing leaders in young trees
• Disease management — removing infected limbs to stop spread, with sanitized tools

Pruning requires knowledge of tree biology: where to cut, how much to remove, and what the tree can recover from. Bad pruning — especially topping, where the top of the tree is sheared off — can permanently damage or kill a tree.

When Do You Need Trimming?

• Branches are touching or close to your roof, gutters, or siding
• Limbs hang low over the driveway, sidewalk, or street
• The tree looks overgrown or unkempt
• Branches are near power lines or other structures

When Do You Need Pruning?

• Dead branches are visible in the canopy
• The tree has weak, crossing, or rubbing branches
• You want to strengthen a young tree's structure
• Disease or pest damage needs to be cut out
• After storm damage, to clean up broken limbs properly

Most real jobs involve both. Trimming back the overhang and, in the same visit, pruning out the deadwood and structural problems is normal — and it's the right way to do it.

Why the Difference Matters

If you call a company and ask for a "trim" but your tree actually needs structural pruning, an inexperienced crew may just shear the outside of the canopy — which looks tidy for a season and leaves the real problems untouched. Worse, they might top the tree, destroying its structure.

A professional tree service assesses what the tree actually needs and explains it before cutting. Ask any company you hire to explain what work they're recommending and why — trimming, pruning, or both — and get it in writing.

It's also worth asking any tree company you hire how they make their cuts. Proper pruning cuts are made just outside the branch collar — the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk — which lets the tree seal the wound naturally. Flush cuts and stubs both cause problems. If a company can't explain their cutting technique, that's a red flag.

How Often Should Trees Be Trimmed or Pruned?

Most mature trees in the Chicago suburbs benefit from professional attention every few years. Fast-growing species may need it more often. The best window is late fall through early spring, when trees are dormant — but dead, damaged, or hazardous limbs should come off any time of year.

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Get It in Writing

Not sure whether your trees need trimming, pruning, or removal? Ask any company you hire to explain what your trees need in plain language, and get the price in writing.

Call The Best Tree Guys at (708) 665-4874 for a free tree trimming and pruning estimate in the southwest Chicago suburbs. Ask what's included in the written quote — including cleanup and hauling.

A severe storm just rolled through the southwest Chicago suburbs and your tree took the hit. Here's exactly what to do next — in order — to keep your family safe and get the damage handled. If you need help right now, our emergency storm service is ready to respond.

Storms in the Chicago suburbs don't give much warning, and the damage they leave behind ranges from a few downed limbs to a tree through the roof. Whatever you're looking at, the steps below apply.

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Step 1: Stay Away and Assess From a Distance

Do not walk under a damaged tree to "take a closer look." Storm-damaged trees are unpredictable — cracked trunks can fail, hung-up limbs can drop, and partially fallen trees can shift. Assess the damage from a safe distance first.

Check for these immediate dangers:

• Downed power lines. If a tree or limb is touching a line, or a line is on the ground, stay far away and call your utility company immediately. Never touch the tree.
• A tree on your house or car. Don't try to move it.
• A new or worsening lean. The root system may be compromised.
• Large hanging branches. These can fall without warning.

Step 2: Call Your Utility Company If Lines Are Involved

If power lines are down or a tree is in contact with them, the utility company comes first. Only after they've cleared the lines should a tree crew do the removal work.

Step 3: Call a Professional Tree Service

For everything else — a tree on the roof, a blocked driveway, split trunks, major limb loss — call a tree company. Ask for proof of insurance and licensing, and get everything in writing. If you need emergency storm help in the southwest Chicago suburbs, call (708) 665-4874 — and ask what their emergency process is and how quickly they can get on site.

Do not attempt storm cleanup yourself. Storm-damaged trees kill and injure homeowners every year. A chainsaw and a ladder are not the right tools for a tree under tension or a trunk that's partially failed. Ask any company you hire about the equipment they'll use, and get it in the written quote.

Trees Uprooted by a Storm

When a storm fully or partly uproots a tree — the root plate lifting out of the ground or the whole tree leaning hard — keep everyone away from it. A leaning tree is under enormous tension, and cutting into one yourself is one of the most dangerous things a homeowner can do. A small, young tree that has only shifted can sometimes be straightened and re-staked, but a mature tree that's been uprooted usually can't recover — it has to come out. Call a professional to assess it and handle it safely.

Document the Damage Before Cleanup

Before any cleanup work starts, take photos and video of the tree and everything it damaged — from a safe distance. Your homeowner's insurance will want to see the scene the way the storm left it. Keep the written estimate and the final invoice too; you'll need them if you file a claim.

Step 4: Document the Damage for Insurance

Before cleanup begins, take photos and video of the damage from a safe position — the tree, what it hit, and the surrounding area. Most homeowners insurance policies cover tree removal when a tree damages a covered structure, and they may cover debris removal too. Save your invoice and receipts; you'll need them for the claim.

A few things to know:

• Insurance typically covers removal when the tree damaged your home, garage, or fence — not always when a tree simply falls in the yard.
• Take photos before anything is moved, if it's safe to do so.
• Keep receipts for any emergency work.

Step 5: Get the Cleanup Done Right

A professional crew will remove the immediate hazard first — the tree off the roof, the driveway cleared — then handle the full cleanup. Ask what's included: reputable tree services put cleanup and hauling in the written quote.

Step 6: Have Your Remaining Trees Checked

Storms stress every tree on your property, not just the ones that failed. Cracked limbs, loosened root plates, and structural damage aren't always obvious. After a major storm, it's worth having your remaining trees inspected — catching damage early prevents the next emergency.

This is also the right time to think about prevention. Trees that were already weak — dead limbs, poor structure, root damage from nearby construction — are the ones that fail first. A post-storm inspection often reveals which trees need pruning or removal before the next round of severe weather.

Hidden Storm Damage

Not all storm damage is obvious from the ground. Watch for these problems — they can make a tree dangerous weeks or months after the storm:

• Hanging broken limbs caught in the canopy. They can drop without warning.
• Split trunks. A crack running down the trunk weakens the whole tree.
• A lifted root plate. Soil heaved up on one side of the base means the roots have let go.
• A new lean toward the house. Even a slight change is a warning sign.
• Cracks in the soil around the base. Shifting ground means the roots are moving.

If you spot any of these, have the tree inspected before the next storm puts it to the test.

Storm-Damaged Tree FAQs

Can a storm-damaged tree be saved?

Sometimes. It depends on how much of the canopy and root system was lost — a tree missing a few limbs can often recover with proper pruning, but one with a split trunk or major root damage usually can't. An on-site look is the only way to know for sure.

How fast should a damaged tree be dealt with?

Hanging limbs and trees resting on a house, car, or power lines are emergencies — call for emergency storm service right away. Less urgent damage can usually wait a few days for an inspection, but don't put it off: damaged trees don't stabilize on their own.

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After the Storm, Act Fast

Damaged trees don't stabilize on their own. The next wind event can finish what the storm started. If you're dealing with storm damage right now, don't wait.

Call The Best Tree Guys at (708) 665-4874 if you need emergency storm help in the southwest Chicago suburbs. Ask what's included in the written quote — including cleanup and hauling — and get everything in writing.

A healthy tree is an asset. A dying one is a liability waiting for the next storm. Here are the warning signs that a tree on your property in the southwest Chicago suburbs may need professional removal — and what to do about each.

One important note first: these signs tell you something is wrong, but they don't all mean the tree must come down. A professional inspection is the only way to know for sure. Ask any company you hire to put its findings in writing, so you can compare options.

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1. Large Dead Branches or a Bare Crown

A few dead twigs are normal. But when major limbs are dead, or the crown is thinning and bare while neighboring trees are full, the tree is in serious decline. Dead branches — called deadwood — are the first to fall in a storm, and they can injure people or damage property without warning.

What to do: Have the tree inspected. Sometimes targeted pruning buys time; sometimes removal is the only safe option.

2. Cracks or Splits in the Trunk

Deep cracks, especially ones that go through the bark into the wood, signal structural failure. A trunk that splits in a V-shape between two leaders is particularly weak. In the Chicago suburbs, freeze-thaw cycles and heavy snow loads make existing cracks worse every winter.

What to do: Don't ignore this one. A cracked trunk can fail suddenly, especially under snow or wind load. Call (708) 665-4874 for an assessment.

3. Leaning — Especially a New Lean

A tree that has always leaned slightly may be fine. A tree that has recently started leaning, or whose lean is increasing, is telling you its root system is failing. Soil heaving around the base — visible lifting or cracking of the ground — confirms it.

What to do: A newly leaning tree is an emergency, particularly if it's leaning toward a house, driveway, or power line. Call (708) 665-4874 — and ask what their emergency process is and how quickly they can get on site.

4. Fungus Growing on the Trunk or Roots

Mushrooms or shelf-like fungi (conks) growing on a trunk or around the base mean decay inside the tree. Fungi feed on dead and rotting wood — their presence tells you the tree's structure is compromised, even if the canopy still looks green.

What to do: Fungal fruiting bodies on a mature tree almost always mean removal is needed. An on-site inspection confirms the extent.

5. Root Damage or Exposed Roots

Construction, trenching, or soil compaction can destroy a tree's root system. Signs include exposed or severed roots, mushrooms along root lines, and a canopy that thins out within a season or two of nearby digging. A tree with a damaged root plate is unstable.

What to do: If you've had recent excavation near a tree and it's declining, have it evaluated before the next storm season.

6. Pest or Disease Damage

In the Midwest, emerald ash borer has devastated ash trees — if your ash tree is losing its canopy, has D-shaped exit holes in the bark, or shows heavy woodpecker activity, it's likely infested. Other diseases cause cankers, oozing, and dieback in oaks and maples.

What to do: Diseased trees often can't be saved once decline is advanced, and dead ash trees become extremely brittle — dangerous to climb and expensive to remove later. Earlier removal is safer and usually cheaper.

7. The Tree Is Too Close to Structures or Lines

Even a healthy tree becomes a hazard when it outgrows its space — limbs rubbing the roof, roots lifting the driveway or foundation, branches growing into power lines. This is a placement problem, not a health problem, but the solution is the same.

What to do: If trimming can't solve the clearance issue, removal is the safe choice.

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Don't Wait for the Next Storm

Every one of these signs gets worse with time — and more expensive to fix. If you recognize any of them on your property, get a professional opinion before severe weather makes the decision for you.

Call The Best Tree Guys at (708) 665-4874 for a free tree inspection and estimate in the southwest Chicago suburbs.

One more thing worth knowing: removal isn't always the answer. If an inspection shows the tree is structurally sound, targeted pruning — removing deadwood, reducing a heavy limb, improving the crown — can extend its life by years. A reputable tree service puts its findings in writing — ask for that before agreeing to any work.